About the restaurant: Some people swear that the famous Neapolitan pizzeria L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele serves the best pizza in the world, but Angelenos don’t need to fly to Italy to find out because restaurateur Francesco Zimone and his fellow Neapolitan chef Michele Rubini have opened the first American location in Hollywood. Just like the original Naples eatery (which dates back to 1870), it offers ethereal wood-fired pizza.

Decor: The renovated space of Café des Artistes retains its former romantic charm with a revamped front and back patio framed by brick, tile, stone and shady trees. Indoors is a place to relax and sip prosecco in a stylish, spacious California bungalow on cocoa-colored leather sofas or at the long, sleek white bar. But the real action takes place on the bustling patio, a courtyard surrounded by a brick fireplace and a spectacular glass pizza kitchen. This is a great Hollywood crowd, and they know it. Reservations are a must. And although Julia Roberts made L’Antica in Naples famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love, you’re more likely to see her here.

Food and drink: It’s all about the pizza. Pros. The menu pays due attention to the Italian classics, but the ricotta-stuffed zucchini blossoms can be small and overcooked, while the linguine with clams, white wine and bottarga is just pedestrian. There’s a New York steak or grilled pork chop if you need to top off your bill. But, if not, the pizza itself is worthy of the destination and is a good approximation of the original Naples (we’ve been there too). Rubini adorns the thin, soft crust, well charred in the wood-fired oven. Fior di latte and pecorino margarita cheeses complement the pie in perfect proportion with a sprinkling of basil, and the aromatic tomato sauce combined with garlic creates a high-quality marinara; the spicy Montanara is fried and baked with smoked mozzarella, or luxuriously served with black truffle shavings. The pies are generous – two people can easily share one. The Italian wine list does it right, offering a pleasant Vermentino from Corsica, a strong Tuscan rosé, or more serious Brunello or Barbaresco. Together, the pizza, wine, and atmosphere create one of the most enjoyable places in Hollywood. Until Mount Vesuvius erupts again, it may not be the best pizza in the world, but it may be the best in Los Angeles.